Athleisure: How Sportswear Democratized Fashion

The only SUPREME gear I'd buy is from the AKIRA collection

While luxury fashion graces its heels down smooth runways and red carpets, streetwear rears its head on hot pavement and sidewalks at the intersection of couture and urbanity. Historically profiled by urban youth culture, the lines between streetwear and high fashion have always been a bit blurry. Still dominated by niche labels, the carefully curated and stylized grit of the trends on the streets remained mostly inaccessible; a $600 Supreme blazer doesn’t exactly fit the budget of those disinterested in high fashion. So while streetwear may seem like a bold statement going against the grain of elitist couture, in reality it’s merely the offspring of what we see on the runway with every change of the season. Yet in the past year, the Yves Saint Laurent fanny packs and Gucci sweatshirts have been infiltrated by the familiar Nike swooshes that were on our old gym sneakers and the Adidas stripes that ran down our windbreakers and track uniforms. This new trend is athleisure: where sportswear meets style.

I need to see those 3 stripes!

Tracksuits, windbreakers, chunky tennis shoes, mesh tank tops - sportswear turned fashionable is the bread and butter of the athleisure trend. Somewhat reminiscent of the getup seen in 80’s pop videos and 90’s hip-hop, it began making its way back into the public eye in the past two years. Adidas, Champion, Fila, Reebok, Puma, Ellesse and other similar brands dominate this market, as the demand for comfortable fashion skyrockets. While the simple trend started on the streets, it quickly streamlined its way into popular culture as a massive style phenomenon. Multi-platinum rapper and record producer Drake has become known for his windbreaker tracksuits. Pop artist Charli XCX frequently performs in head-to-toe Adidas. Beyoncé and her entire band sported custom varsity sweatshirts for her Coachella headlining performance. Even the Kardashians, America’s ‘first family’ of all things pop culture are regularly photographed in sweat suits and spandex gym shorts.

As the athleisure streetwear trend continues to thrive in pop culture and the world of fashion, old brands are finding ways to capitalize on it. Adidas recently opened the doors to its concept store in Berlin – Adidas No 74. The boutique features statement pieces and exclusive collections leaning more towards sleek high fashion over grungy 90’s workout nostalgia. Additionally, Puma collaborated with Rihanna to released her FENTY collection, putting an edgy designer twist on running shoes and platform sneakers.

The primary appeal of this trend is its accessibility – most pieces can be purchased for less than $100. Brands like Champion and Fila have expanded the idea of streetwear from New York City and Berlin to suburbs and smaller cities across the nation. Most importantly, the simple designs of leggings and slip-on sandals are much more easily and comfortably worn than previous streetwear trends. College students have the ability to mimic outfits they see on television and social media without looking too “out there” or breaking the bank.

We love a chunky sneak.

While preexisting retailers have taken advantage of their sudden resurgence of popularity, fashion designers and high-end retailers have begun to jump on the bandwagon. In 2017 designer Louis Vuitton collaborated with Supreme, bringing a brand that specializes in skateboard clothing to the runway. Alexander Wang created a line for Adidas, wherein designer Adidas originals sweatshirts were sold for more than $200. The most recent craze on the sporty side of high fashion is the Balenciaga Triple S sneakers. Released in September 2017, the chunky design is taken from the molds of multiple different sports’ shoes, ranging in price from $895 to $1,200. Perhaps the most notable high-end addition to the athleisure trend is Yeezy – the footwear and apparel brand designed by Kanye West. Nylon slippers, canvas sneakers and gym bags are premiered at fashion week and sold for hundreds. His highly coveted Yeezy sneakers are released in limited quantities and often resold for thousands online.

Designers dipping into sportswear and athleisure have brought the trend full circle; what was once a staple of edgy urban street style is at the forefront of luxury designs. It has completely dissolved the once-blurry line between streetwear and high fashion. We are just as likely to see Kendall Jenner or Alexa Chung walking through downtown Los Angeles wearing windbreakers and sweatpants are we are designer jeans and stilettos. Athleisure has become an icon for the modern democratization of fashion, making its way from select streetwear savants to the general population back onto the runway.

Throughout the country, athleisure is a demonstration of the American equality of conditions: the reduction of material differences and inequalities. At its material core, athleisure is simply the incorporation of tennis shoes and tracksuits into designer apparel. Yet it has done something game-changing – it has made high fashion accessible to everyone. Where streetwear was once a luxe fashion staple it now graces streets across the country by anyone and everyone, regardless of size or income. It has brought us equality in a notoriously elitist industry, universality in a time of divisiveness. It is an exception that will soon become the rule, a trend that is not going anywhere.

This blog post is part of a series for an application entry to be selected as a representative of UofSC at NYFW.